#17: Beyond the Brownie
Before decriminalization/legalization kicked in, talking about weed was a kind of wink-wink-nudge-nudge in-joke among the cool kids of food media. Sure, Vice Media's Munchies outlet has had a writer following the weed beat full-time for awhile, and last year published a "late night food" cookbook but I mean...well, you know.
As far as the mainstream pubs go, Bon Appètit has been unabashedly at the forefront of the conversation, covering this hot lead all year long, with useful advice on entertaining with edibles, rounding-up the latest on the CBD craze, and very helpfully sharing a recipe for 'THGhee' that's surely been rigorously by their staff, if all those zany Brad and Vinnie videos are any indication.
But what greater sign of weed's embrace by the wellness tribe than its Goop-ification, with a guide to CBD-spiked cocktails. Recently, Bon Appetit also covered CBD oil as a sleep aid, promoted by the ladies at CAP Beauty alongside adaptogens (more on those soon!) and superfood supplements.
Hitching to the vernacular of self care and the ostensible medicinal values of marijuana and CBD, companies like Dosist (fka hmbldt) are taking a clearly diagnostic approach, delivering specific blends and 'formulas' to treat anxiety and sleep disorders and offer pain relief, in addition to mood-enhancement for general well-being.
Speaking more directly to food-focused sensibilities, Juna bills itself as "Cannabis with Taste," and invokes a "farm-to-table philosophy" behind its botanically-driven blends of CBD oil drops. Edibles by Serra and Atlas offer detailed tasting notes, with elaborations on blends and demystifying descriptions of a strain's strength and effects for more conscious and informed dosing of "functional cannabis."
Chefs and producers are now encouraged to experiment with edibles that range way past the realm of dodgy spacecakes and the weird-tasting brownies you made in college. Michael Magallanes, known as The Opulent Chef has cooked in Michelin-starred restaurants Aziza and Mourad, and James Beard-award winning pastry chef Mindy Segal has herself launched a line of artisanal edibles.
Reading Munchies' "State of Edibles" review from 2016 shows just how far things have come in the past year. Ingredients like cannabis-infused olive oil could make it much easier to incorporate a bit of mood-enhancement to any meal, or enjoying a cold-brewed tea infusion might be an even more relaxing or invigorating sip. Pot as we knew it has completely gone up in smoke.
This emerging crop of savvy businesses are investing heavily in the style behind the substance. Brands like Serra, Tetra, and Beboe–whom the New York Times has called "the Hermès of marijuana" are gorgeous examples of a fresh design ethos that couldn't be farther from the usual psychedelica. From packaging and product design to social media curation, these aesthetically-driven brands seem poised to become icons of modern luxury. It's not hard to picture the perfect Instagram flatlay of a well-placed matcha latte alongside the soft pink box of Pure Beauty's pack of pre-rolled joints.
And because I can't resist the urge to make a pun, it's worth mentioning this new super-swish joint venture, with pre-eminent edible producer Lord Jones launching a dispensary inside the downtown LA location of The Standard.
While still notably West Coast-centric for the moment, the world is opening up to welcome the canna-curious, with expertly facilitated tastings, supper clubs, workshops, and gatherings. There are even a few new publications and communities popping up, like Broccoli and Gossamer.
It's hard to ignore the emphasis on a more female-friendly marketing strategy. Apparently, legal weed is an amazing business opportunity for women, according to this article from Quartz, which profiles a number of successful women on the rise who are not only destigmatizing the use of cannabis products, but also actively creating and promoting new ventures in this emerging space.
Fast Company recently highlighted 'weed warrior" Wanda James, who runs the first black-owned dispensary in Colorado, and last year, the New Yorker profiled Laurie Wolf, the 'Martha Stewart of edibles.'
Finally, wellness site Well + Good interviewed self-proclaimed "cannabis feminist" Jessica Assaf, sparking the idea that we might actually be on the edge of a movement.